Wool, Unravelled: Fibres, Ethics, and What We Choose to Wear

Dec 13, 2025

Wool has accompanied humanity for thousands of years. It warms, protects, breathes, and biodegrades back into the earth. Yet behind this seemingly natural fibre lies a complex web of animal welfare concerns, environmental impact, and production realities that deserve a closer look.

At TE'VAI, we believe that conscious fashion starts with understanding. This article unravels the most common types of wool, how they differ, what ethical challenges surround them, and how to make more informed, responsible choices.

What Is Wool, Really?

Wool is a natural protein fibre made of keratin — the same substance found in human hair and nails. Its structure gives it unique properties: insulation, moisture regulation, flame resistance, elasticity, and durability.

What we commonly call “wool” actually includes fibres from different animals:

  • Sheep (merino and non-merino breeds)

  • Alpacas

  • Goats (cashmere and mohair)

  • Rabbits (angora)

  • Camels (camel hair)

Each fibre behaves differently depending on diameter, scale structure, length, and processing methods. These differences influence comfort, longevity, environmental footprint, and ethical implications.

The Main Wool Types Explained

Merino Wool

Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, originally from Spain and now predominantly raised in Australia, which supplies around 80% of the global merino market.

  • Fibre diameter: ~17–25 microns

  • Key qualities: Soft, breathable, thermo-regulating

  • Uses: Base layers, activewear, knitwear

Because merino sheep are selectively bred for excessive wool growth, they require frequent shearing and intensive management. The fleece contains lanolin, which must be removed through water and chemical-intensive scouring.

Standard Sheep Wool

From breeds such as Lincoln or Dorset, this wool is thicker and more resilient.

  • Fibre diameter: 25–40+ microns

  • Uses: Carpets, upholstery, outerwear

It is durable but often coarse, and production is closely tied to the meat industry, increasing ethical and environmental concerns.

Alpaca Wool

Alpaca fibre comes from South American alpacas, primarily in Peru.

  • Fibre diameter: ~15–40 microns

  • Key qualities: Hypoallergenic, warm, lanolin-free

  • Uses: Sweaters, scarves, vests

Alpaca wool does not contain lanolin, making it naturally hypoallergenic and requiring fewer processing steps. Alpacas also graze gently without uprooting plants, helping prevent soil erosion. Baby alpaca — from the first shearing — is especially soft.

Cashmere

Cashmere is sourced from the undercoat of cashmere goats.

  • Fibre diameter: ~18 microns

  • Key qualities: Silky, lightweight, luxurious

  • Uses: High-end knitwear

Each goat produces only about 150 grams per year. Rising demand has led to overgrazing in regions such as Mongolia, contributing to desertification, biodiversity loss, and high water consumption.

Mohair

Mohair comes from Angora goats.

  • Fibre diameter: ~25–40 microns

  • Key qualities: Strong, shiny, resilient

  • Uses: Cardigans, blends, decorative knits

While visually striking and durable, mohair farming is resource-intensive and has been linked to soil degradation and animal welfare violations.

Camel hair

Camel wool (often called camel hair) comes mainly from Bactrian camels in Central Asia and Mongolia. The soft undercoat, naturally shed during moulting, is collected rather than shorn.

  • Fibre diameter: ~16–25 microns

  • Key qualities: Very warm, lightweight, breathable, lanolin-free

  • Uses: Coats, scarves, blankets

Comparable in softness to cashmere but more durable, camel wool is naturally hypoallergenic and typically used undyed in its warm, earthy tones. Camels are well adapted to arid environments, require little water, and are not bred for excessive fibre production, making camel wool one of the lower-intensity animal fibres when responsibly sourced.

Ethical Challenges in Wool Production

Animal Welfare

Across the industry, several practices raise serious concerns:

  • Mulesing in merino sheep — a painful procedure used to prevent flystrike, legal in Australia but banned in many countries

  • Rough shearing practices, driven by pay-per-volume systems

  • Painful procedures such as tail docking and castration without anesthesia

  • High lamb mortality rates, especially in intensive systems

  • Live export, where sheep are transported long distances under stressful conditions

Alpaca farming generally involves less intensive interventions, though stress and injuries during shearing still occur, particularly on large-scale farms.

Environmental Impact

Wool is often perceived as sustainable, but scale matters:

  • Requires significantly more land than plant fibres

  • Produces high methane emissions

  • Pollutes water during scouring and dyeing

  • Overgrazing contributes to desertification and biodiversity loss

Certifications and Organisations That Matter

Several initiatives aim to improve transparency and welfare standards:

  • Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) – animal welfare, land management, worker conditions

  • International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) – global welfare guidelines

  • ZQ Merino – no-mulesing, traceable merino

  • Nativa Protocol – regional traceability and welfare standards

  • Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA) – focuses on cashmere and similar fibres

Advocacy organisations such as PETA and FOUR PAWS play a critical role in exposing abuse and pushing for industry reform.

Is Wool Safe for Human Skin?

Despite common belief, wool itself is not an allergen.

Scientific evidence shows that irritation usually comes from:

  • Coarse fibre diameter (over ~30 microns)

  • Lanolin sensitivity

  • Residual processing chemicals

Superfine merino (under 17 microns) is widely recognised as skin-friendly and has even been shown to benefit people with eczema or asthma. Modern processing and responsible dyeing significantly reduce risks.

Who Produces the World’s Wool?

Global wool production is concentrated in a few countries:

  1. China – 367,500 tons

  2. Australia – 324,000 tons (leader in clean wool)

  3. New Zealand – 124,000 tons

  4. Turkey – 80,200 tons

  5. United Kingdom – 71,700 tons

Production trends show growth in Asia and Africa, while some regions face declines due to environmental strain and changing agricultural priorities.

Choosing Wool More Consciously

Wool is neither inherently good nor inherently bad. Its impact depends on how, where, and why it is produced.

Conscious choices may include:

  • Prioritising certified, traceable fibres

  • Choosing lower-impact alternatives or blends

  • Buying less, but better

  • Extending garment life through care and repair

At TE'VAI, we believe fashion should honour both people and planet — with curiosity, responsibility, and respect woven into every decision.

Sources & References

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